International Pattern making job

To everyone that contacted me about this pattern making position I am just advising you all that this position has been filled. Thanks to all of you for your interest. If I come across anymore pattern making postions I will post them on my blog.!!

Thanks for the emails!!!!!!

Wow, it seems forever since I last posted, so much has happened that I haven't been able to keep up with the blogging. I will resume shortly with many interesting articles.


I say thank you to all of you who send me emails and I will try to answer all of you. It's just that I receive so many that it's really hard to answer everyone. I'll try my best, promise!!


I would just like to mention to everyone that asked me about the book that I am writing. I am still writing the book and it should be complete within the next 6 months. Don't worry I will put a link on my blog for all those who are interested in purchasing it.


I also forgot to mention I'm off on holidays soon for about 5 weeks, leave May 7 destination Italy. Can't wait it will be fantastic!!!!!!! Hope to come back with some new ideas, I'll keep you posted.

Free sewing patterns

It's been so long since I've posted I can't believe how time flies but I've been so busy working that I haven't had much time for anything else. I promise that in the coming weeks I will be posting heaps of information, so for anyone following my blog please stay tuned for futher information. In the meantime I came across an interesting website. They have heaps of free sewing patterns to download and print at home.
http://m-sewing.com/ .

Fusing/Interfacing

I've been asked recently about types of fusing to use when making up a jacket. I would recommend woven fusing. It works great on jackets or anywhere else for that matter.

Area's you would fuse are entire front, no matter what type of fabric, back shoulder and underarm, all hems including sleeve and jacket hems, collars, lapels, facings, any pocket flaps, jets or welts. The fusing should extend over the foldline by at least 1cm to avoid any stress on the foldline.

And just remember when making pattern pieces for fusing it's good idea to trim some off to avoid a lot of thickness in the seams when sewing pieces together and it also helps the seams to remain flat.

The home dress maker would probably have other methods of fusing garments, the above methods are used mainly in manufacturing. But it's also a good method for anyone sewing at home.

Introduction to Collars

When we think of a collars we don't really think to ask ourselves, "Why is there a collar?"
We usally just buy a garment because we like it or because it's fashionable. But did you know that when collars were introduced they had a purpose and that was to be either functional or decorative or both. When used for warmth it would then become functional and decorative. When it was used as a decorative feature it enhanced both the garment and the owner.

There are two broad classifications that collars fall into;

Separate set-in collars such as the "Peter Pan" and "Mandarin" collar

Collars developed in part or whole in one with the waist, such as the
"Shawl" collar or "Notched" collars.


Regardless of classification, all collars fit into one of the following categories:


1. Flat Fitting

2. Rolled

3. Stand-up


A flat fitting collar, regardless of width, rolls over from the neckline seam and either ripples or lies flat on the body.

A rolled collar, regardless of width, is a collar that has a stand. a stand is the material under the collar at the center back which extends upward from the garment neckline to the point where a collar rolls or folds over.

A stand up collar is a collar that has no roll back.

Collars may be cut on the bias, lengthwise, or crosswise grain depending upon the pattern or texture of fabric and the effect desired.

In a few days I will be posting more information and pictures of types of collars and collar rules.

Grading contd.....

There are certain factors that you must take into consideration when grading.

(The following information is for size range 8 -16.)

1. Design proportion


2. Design Detail


3. Fabric


4. Trimmings


5. Size range


6. Machinist cost


7. Graders cost


8. Fabric marker


9. Nil grade areas



Nil Grade Areas

1. Any small pieces for example; tabs, yokes facing widths, cuffs, collar width, pleat width, frills, waistband width

2. Tucks and darts

3. Back shoulder dart, waist dart, elbow dart, back and front skirt darts, nil grade in length.

4. Frills and flounces, nil grade in width only - but length must be graded in proportion to the garment.

Some would same that button spacing is a nil grade and as you grade up you gain extra length and to add an extra button. I don't agree with this I always grade my button spacing accordingly for every size to keep them in proportion. You are not always able to add another button it depends on how much length grade you add. So I always calculate and maintain the correct proportion for the buttons.

Button size always remains the same size throughout. Lace, braid and applique are a set size.

When you consider fabric take into account factors such as repeat patterns, stripes, checks, floral, border prints, one way prints, etc.

Pattern notches should always remain in the same position and try to use the least amount of notches as it is easier to work with.

Grade rules for sizes: 8 - 16

Across Shoulder 1.2cm

Across Front 1.2cm

Across Back 1.2cm

Neck Width 0.6cm

Neck base opening 1.2cm

Shoulder Length 0.3cm

Sleeve Length from cervical 1.2cm

Sleeve Length from Shoulder point 0.6cm

Insleeve 0

Centre Back Nape to Waist 0.6cm

Skirt length 0

Side neck to waist 0.6cm

Vertical trunk 1.2cm

Armhole depth 0.6cm

Inleg to ground 0

Outleg to ground 0.6cm

Front crotch 0.9cm

Back crotch 0.9cm

Side neck to bust 0.6cm

Body rise 0.6cm

Bust circ. 5.0cm

Waist circ. 5.0cm

Hip circ. (20cm down) 5.0cm

Thigh circ. 3.1cm

Knee circ. 1.5cm

Hem circ. 5.0cm

Sleeve opening - long 0.6cm

Sleeve opening - short 1.2cm

Leg opening - legging 0.6cm

Leg opening - pant 1.2cm

Leg opening - short 2.5cm

Armhole circumference 1.6cm

Upper Arm Girth 1.2cm


Please note that insleeve length, skirt length and inleg to ground length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as some of them grade the lengths of skirts, pants and sleeves and their grading rules may also vary from the grading rules that I have mentioned above. However in menswear and childrenswear these lengths will definitely grade. You would subtract or add these measurments between sizes 8 to 16 depending on what size you use to start your grade.

I will be posting some lessons shortly on how to grade using the measurments above on various designs, so please stay tuned.

Start up companies

I've been flat out working freelancing at companies and also working from home doing many patterns for aspiring Fashion Designers. I applaud these new Designers for having the courage and determination to try out in this competitive world of Fashion. I receive many calls per week from young women and men who want to start up a fashion label asking for my opinion from where do I start, do I have any contacts and who can I recommend, etc.

Having worked in the Fashion business I guess if I was to start up a label it would be easier for me as I would know my way around the business of Fashion. I wouldn't have as many costs as someone who has no experience or skills in Fashion as I am able to Design, do patterns, grading and production and I know the procedure from a sketch to finished product.. But for those that don't know anything about the fashion world it can come to quite a shock to find out the costs involved in just producing a few items of clothing and the time and effort it takes to release a range.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a book and a directory that would save the aspiring Designer all the leg work and frustration of having to source everything from beginning to end? Of course it would then it would make life much easier. A book on How to start a Fashion Label with all the instructions on how to go about it and where to source everything from pattern makers to manufacturers and everything in between.



Stay tuned as I am writing a book on "How to start a Fashion Label" with instructions and a directory of everything from pattern makers, fabric wholesalers, local and offshore manufacturers, etc.



If any business would like to be listed in this directory please contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com