Making Fashion

UNDERSTANDING EASE IN PATTERN DRAFTING

2011-08-20T21:38:00.000-07:00

Ease is the difference between body measurements and the measurements of a finished garment.

The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect the look, fit, style and comfort of a garment.

In clothing manufacture there is usually a small amount of ease added to patterns just to give the right amount of comfort and movement. For example a skirt may have 3cm ease added to the hip and 1 - 2 cm ease to the waist, this would provide a minimum amount of comfort and movement. Each manufacturer would have their own standard set of ease measurements depending on who their client base is. For example if they are manufacturing garments for the older person they would most likely add more ease around the waist and hips to provide a certain look with greater comfort and movement.

Then there are the knitted fabrics that would not require any ease at all as these garments would stretch to fit the shape and size of the person. However, there are certain knits that may require some ease as they don't have much stretch and need to be treated similar to woven fabrics.

When buying a commercial pattern you don't have to consider ease when cutting out the fabric as the pattern company would have already calculated and included the ease to each pattern. If you like the silhouette and style of the pattern and think that enough ease hasn't been added then you can always add the extra ease that your require yourself. Commercial Pattern Companies usually have a standard set of ease measurements that they adhere to just like clothing manufacturers.

ADDING EASE TO PATTERNS

When adding ease to patterns first consider the type of garment your wish to make. You need to consider the function and style of the garment and the fabric that you intend to use. Also how is this garment going to be worn, do you require a zipper opening, in that case it may require less ease, etc.

Will you be making a loose fitting garment or a tight fitting garment? In both cases you will require a different amount of ease. What type of fabric will you be using?? Soft fabrics may suit a more loose fitting garment, for example an A-line skirt. A heavier and thicker type fabric may require a tailored type of garment, for example a jacket.

Adding ease is not difficult and it all comes down to experience and trial and error. As you become more familiar and experienced adding ease will become second nature.

Be confident and start experimenting and soon you will figure out the right amount of ease to add to each pattern.!!

Seams

2010-08-28T03:54:00.000-07:00

A Seam may be defined as where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitches. There are many types of seams that have been developed over time to be used with different types of fabrics and different types of uses.

There are seams that are used in the production of industrial goods, for example tent manufacturers, upholstery manufacturers and seams that are used in the production of clothing. Whatever the use, seams play an important role and deciding which seam to use will depend on the fabric the end use and the type of finish you want.

There are many kinds of seams produced by many types of machines. Some more common seams are the straight stitch, zig zag, overlocked seams, mock stitch, coverstitch, felled seams, french seams, etc. In my next post I will go into more detail about each seam and how to pick the correct seam depending on the end use of the garment and fabric type.

Free sewing patterns

2010-07-26T18:01:00.000-07:00

It's been so long since I've posted I can't believe how time flies but I've been so busy working that I haven't had much time for anything else. I promise that in the coming weeks I will be posting heaps of information, so for anyone following my blog please stay tuned for futher information. In the meantime I came across an interesting website. They have heaps of free sewing patterns to download and print at home.
http://m-sewing.com/ .

International Pattern making job

2009-08-21T21:49:00.000-07:00

To everyone that contacted me about this pattern making position I am just advising you all that this position has been filled. Thanks to all of you for your interest. If I come across anymore pattern making postions I will post them on my blog.!!

Thanks for the emails!!!!!!

2009-08-12T03:19:00.000-07:00

Wow, it seems forever since I last posted, so much has happened that I haven't been able to keep up with the blogging. I will resume shortly with many interesting articles.

I say thank you to all of you who send me emails and I will try to answer all of you. It's just that I receive so many that it's really hard to answer everyone. I'll try my best, promise!!

I would just like to mention to everyone that asked me about the book that I am writing. I am still writing the book and it should be complete within the next 6 months. Don't worry I will put a link on my blog for all those who are interested in purchasing it.

I also forgot to mention I'm off on holidays soon for about 5 weeks, leave May 7 destination Italy. Can't wait it will be fantastic!!!!!!! Hope to come back with some new ideas, I'll keep you posted.

Fusing/Interfacing

2008-11-06T21:52:00.000-08:00

I've been asked recently about types of fusing to use when making up a jacket. I would recommend woven fusing. It works great on jackets or anywhere else for that matter.

Area's you would fuse are entire front, no matter what type of fabric, back shoulder and underarm, all hems including sleeve and jacket hems, collars, lapels, facings, any pocket flaps, jets or welts. The fusing should extend over the foldline by at least 1cm to avoid any stress on the foldline.

And just remember when making pattern pieces for fusing it's good idea to trim some off to avoid a lot of thickness in the seams when sewing pieces together and it also helps the seams to remain flat.

The home dress maker would probably have other methods of fusing garments, the above methods are used mainly in manufacturing. But it's also a good method for anyone sewing at home.

Introduction to Collars

2008-10-26T17:00:00.000-07:00

When we think of a collars we don't really think to ask ourselves, "Why is there a collar?"
We usally just buy a garment because we like it or because it's fashionable. But did you know that when collars were introduced they had a purpose and that was to be either functional or decorative or both. When used for warmth it would then become functional and decorative. When it was used as a decorative feature it enhanced both the garment and the owner.

There are two broad classifications that collars fall into;

Separate set-in collars such as the "Peter Pan" and "Mandarin" collar

Collars developed in part or whole in one with the waist, such as the
"Shawl" collar or "Notched" collars.

Regardless of classification, all collars fit into one of the following categories:

1. Flat Fitting

2. Rolled

3. Stand-up

A flat fitting collar, regardless of width, rolls over from the neckline seam and either ripples or lies flat on the body.

A rolled collar, regardless of width, is a collar that has a stand. a stand is the material under the collar at the center back which extends upward from the garment neckline to the point where a collar rolls or folds over.

A stand up collar is a collar that has no roll back.

Collars may be cut on the bias, lengthwise, or crosswise grain depending upon the pattern or texture of fabric and the effect desired.

In a few days I will be posting more information and pictures of types of collars and collar rules.

Grading contd.....

2008-06-01T10:16:00.000-07:00

There are certain factors that you must take into consideration when grading.

(The following information is for size range 8 -16.)

1. Design proportion

2. Design Detail

3. Fabric

4. Trimmings

5. Size range

6. Machinist cost

7. Graders cost

8. Fabric marker

9. Nil grade areas

Nil Grade Areas

1. Any small pieces for example; tabs, yokes facing widths, cuffs, collar width, pleat width, frills, waistband width

2. Tucks and darts

3. Back shoulder dart, waist dart, elbow dart, back and front skirt darts, nil grade in length.

4. Frills and flounces, nil grade in width only - but length must be graded in proportion to the garment.

Some would same that button spacing is a nil grade and as you grade up you gain extra length and to add an extra button. I don't agree with this I always grade my button spacing accordingly for every size to keep them in proportion. You are not always able to add another button it depends on how much length grade you add. So I always calculate and maintain the correct proportion for the buttons.

Button size always remains the same size throughout. Lace, braid and applique are a set size.

When you consider fabric take into account factors such as repeat patterns, stripes, checks, floral, border prints, one way prints, etc.

Pattern notches should always remain in the same position and try to use the least amount of notches as it is easier to work with.

Grade rules for sizes: 8 - 16

Across Shoulder 1.2cm

Across Front 1.2cm

Across Back 1.2cm

Neck Width 0.6cm

Neck base opening 1.2cm

Shoulder Length 0.3cm

Sleeve Length from cervical 1.2cm

Sleeve Length from Shoulder point 0.6cm

Insleeve 0

Centre Back Nape to Waist 0.6cm

Skirt length 0

Side neck to waist 0.6cm

Vertical trunk 1.2cm

Armhole depth 0.6cm

Inleg to ground 0

Outleg to ground 0.6cm

Front crotch 0.9cm

Back crotch 0.9cm

Side neck to bust 0.6cm

Body rise 0.6cm

Bust circ. 5.0cm

Waist circ. 5.0cm

Hip circ. (20cm down) 5.0cm

Thigh circ. 3.1cm

Knee circ. 1.5cm

Hem circ. 5.0cm

Sleeve opening - long 0.6cm

Sleeve opening - short 1.2cm

Leg opening - legging 0.6cm

Leg opening - pant 1.2cm

Leg opening - short 2.5cm

Armhole circumference 1.6cm

Upper Arm Girth 1.2cm

Please note that insleeve length, skirt length and inleg to ground length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as some of them grade the lengths of skirts, pants and sleeves and their grading rules may also vary from the grading rules that I have mentioned above. However in menswear and childrenswear these lengths will definitely grade. You would subtract or add these measurments between sizes 8 to 16 depending on what size you use to start your grade.

I will be posting some lessons shortly on how to grade using the measurments above on various designs, so please stay tuned.

Start up companies

2008-05-31T10:30:00.000-07:00

I've been flat out working freelancing at companies and also working from home doing many patterns for aspiring Fashion Designers. I applaud these new Designers for having the courage and determination to try out in this competitive world of Fashion. I receive many calls per week from young women and men who want to start up a fashion label asking for my opinion from where do I start, do I have any contacts and who can I recommend, etc.

Having worked in the Fashion business I guess if I was to start up a label it would be easier for me as I would know my way around the business of Fashion. I wouldn't have as many costs as someone who has no experience or skills in Fashion as I am able to Design, do patterns, grading and production and I know the procedure from a sketch to finished product.. But for those that don't know anything about the fashion world it can come to quite a shock to find out the costs involved in just producing a few items of clothing and the time and effort it takes to release a range.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a book and a directory that would save the aspiring Designer all the leg work and frustration of having to source everything from beginning to end? Of course it would then it would make life much easier. A book on How to start a Fashion Label with all the instructions on how to go about it and where to source everything from pattern makers to manufacturers and everything in between.

Stay tuned as I am writing a book on "How to start a Fashion Label" with instructions and a directory of everything from pattern makers, fabric wholesalers, local and offshore manufacturers, etc.

If any business would like to be listed in this directory please contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com

Working hard!!

2008-04-23T15:35:00.000-07:00

For anyone following my block I just want to say that I will resume blogging as soon as possible. I'm just inundated with work and haven't had the time to write any entries. I will be posting further information about Grading and grading measurements within the next few days so stay tuned. I'll also be posting information about pattern making techniques.

Pattern Grading

2008-04-13T20:29:00.000-07:00

The skill of Pattern Grading involves using a master pattern and moving it according to a set of grading rules and measurments that are predetermined by industry and other bodies to increase or decrease the size but to retain the proportion of the original master pattern.

As a grader you must prepare a grading plan to allow for proportional distribution of measurements, according to the style or design of the master pattern.

This grading plan is then followed by the Pattern Grader who moves the master pattern, marking in all the grading points. All pattern movements are of 90deg to either the Centre Front, Centre Back or Straight Grain of all pattern pieces. A circular path (either clockwise or anticlockwise) is followed when marking grading points. Then finally these points are blended together to produce a pattern piece/s of the required size.

A pattern may be graded with all sizes showing on the one sheet. This is called a "Nest" and finished pattern pieces will be taken from this at a later stage. Some of the commercial patterns are sold in this manner with sizes grouped together in a nest.

Another method of grading allows for the pattern to be graded one size at a time, the new pattern piece cut out and then used to make the next size etc. This is the method that I use all the time, I find that it works the best for me.

There is also another way to grade and that is using the master pattern to make all the sizes without cutting each one out first. So you would use for example the master pattern size 10 to make 8,12, 14, 16, without cutting out the previous size always using the master pattern.

Before begining to grade it is important to check the accuracy of the pattern, the amount of pieces and the pattern markings of the master pattern.

In Australia grading is used within the clothing industry and patterns are altered by size according to Australian standard measurements, to purchase Australian standard measurements click on the following link: http://www.saiglobal.com/shop/Script/ICSDocBrowse.asp?Code=61.020&StdType=AS

This technique of grading can also be adapted to grade patterns to an individual's measurements, for example private dressmakers may use this technique or something similar to adapt a pattern to fit her customers measurements. Other industry people such as boutiques and designers may use this technique to adust patterns.

Advances in technology has over the years made grading more efficient and quicker resulting in faster production . However, it is important that the operator of the computer must have the knowledge, skills and experience in both the principles and practices of Pattern Grading.

I will be offering in the near future 17 lessons on "How to Grade". If you would like to take the lessons please email me and I will put you on a waiting list and as soon as I release the lessons I will contact you. The cost will be approximately AUS$200.00. The lessons will be by correspondence.

By the end of the lessons you will have the knowledge and skills to be able to grade any garment using the grading measurements and rules.

Contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com if you wish to take the lessons.

If you're a business and need some professional grading done then please contact me for pricing.

Working with Leather

2008-03-19T21:12:00.000-07:00

I did a couple of leather jacket patterns this week in between freelancing at a Jean company and other work. So it's been a busy couple of weeks for me. Working with leather is different to fabric. Some leather garment manufacturers glue leather seams together and then topstich for decorative finish and then there are others that sew seams together with a special leather needle. The leather needle is a three sided needle that have knife-like edges on either side of the point, it looks something like a diamond. Instead of making holes like an ordinary sewing needle the leather needle cuts tiny holes as it stitches through the thicknesses of the leather pieces. The Leather needle can be used to sew suede, vinyl, synthetic leathers, etc. Heavy thread is also recommended for sewing leather and a light foot and plate such as teflon, that won't drag the leather pieces causing the leather to pucker, stretch and cause damage to the top surface of the Leather.

When doing a pattern for leather you need to consider that you may have to design your pattern with more pieces in order to accomodate the size of the skins (hides). When doing so always remember to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces. With Leather Jackets the seams are usually put in the waist and centre back seams. Many other seams are put in places that are not visible, for example on a two piece jacket sleeve, the seam is placed under the lower sleeve, on a collar the seam is usually placed under the lower collar, etc.

When speaking to leather garment manufacturers they have said that the bigger the skin the harder it is and the smaller skins are usually softer and if you want softer leather in longer pieces it's usually very expensive.

I would suggest that if you intend to work with Leather it's best to do a course or read alot about leather to understand and familiarise yourself with the processes involved in Leather garment manufacturing and practice sewing on imitation leathers.

International Pattern Making Job

2008-03-09T18:38:00.000-07:00

For anyone who is interested I have been contacted by a human resource consultancy company in Dubai, who are keen to find a Pattern Maker to work over there. If there is anyone interested please contact me to discuss further and I will pass on the contact details. Refer to the job description as follows;

Garment Pattern Maker

The Client

Our client is a private bespoke couturier based in Abu Dhabi, UAE. For over 20 years these makers of quality hand-made women’s casual and evening clothing have been working with an exclusive list of clientele.

Our client specializes in designing and creating luxurious evening gowns and bridal wear and are renowned for offering their customers elite and personal couture designs. They are currently looking to grow their business in the region and are seeking qualified and experienced professionals to join their developing team.

The Position

Our client is seeking a Garment Pattern maker who will be the technical expert responsible for making the patterns for high-fashion clothing.

Job Description

- Draws outlines of clothing pieces into tracing paper and cutting out the pieces.
- Oversees the work of other pattern makers and add to their ongoing knowledge.
- Creates style patterns according to the information from Design and Management team.
- Ensures all pattern related deadline are met.
- Leads the fit process and up dates patterns and size specifications accordingly, ensuring other teams are in agreement with regards to fit needs per style.
- Keeps the respective interfaces updated of the change.
- Achieves consistency in fit by ensuring that style pattern is based on style templates.
- Responds to all inquiries concerning size tables or size specifications.
- Tests new garment constructions.
- Develops design for garment, adapts existing design for garment, or copies existing design for garment.
- Alters garment and joins parts, using needle and thread or sewing machine, to form finished garment.
- Draws individual pattern or alters existing pattern to fit customer's measurements.
- Confers with management to determine type of material and garment style desired.
- Positions pattern of garment parts on fabric, and cuts fabric along outlines, using scissors.
- Measures customer for size, using tape measure and records measurements.
- Fits basted garment on customer and marks areas requiring alterations.
- Assembles garment parts and joins parts with basting stitches, using needle and thread or sewing machine.

Profile & Background

- Degree in Fashion Design / Technical College / fashion school training in pattern making and/or grading
- English Speaking
- 5 + Years of experience
- Experience in high-end design

Location, Remuneration

- The position will be based in Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Highly competitive all-inclusive salary
- Annual economy return ticket to home country
- 30 Calendar days per year holiday entitlement

Size:10 Body Measurements

2008-03-07T21:12:00.000-08:00

I've been so busy working that I haven't had much time to post, I'll eventually get around to it. Anyhow, I just thought I'd post some measurements for anyone looking for some measurments to make patterns or just curious.. I will list what I consider to be a good Size 10 measurements. Do keep in mind that every country has different measurments and even within Australia from manufacturer to manufacturer these measurments can vary. These measurments may vary due to the clientele of the company, for example a company manufacturing clothing for young women from age 18-25 sizes: 6-14 will have smaller measurments than a company doing clothing for women aged 25-40 sizes: 6 - 14 and so on. So measurements can make a difference even within the same size range. I'm just going to list what I think is a good size: 10 which can be suited to any one, in my opinion. These measurements are body measurements with no ease added.

Size: 10 Body Measurements

Across shoulder 39cm
Across Front 33cm
Across Back 35.5cm
Neck Width 15cm
Neck Circumference 36cm
Shoulder length 13cm
Sleeve length from CB Neck 78cm
Arm Length from shoulder point 58.5cm
Underarm 46cm
Centre Back Nape to waist 41cm
Side neck to waist at Front 43cm
Inleg to ground 80cm
Outleg to ground 106.5cm
Front crotch 30cm
Back crotch 38cm
Bust separation 20cm
Side neck to bust 26cm
Waist to hip 20cm
Body rise 26.5cm
Bust 91cm
Waist 69cm
Hip 96cm
Thigh 58cm
Knee 36cm
Wrist 16cm
Ankle 24cm
Armhole circumference 40cm
Upper arm girth 29cm
Elbow 26cm
Calf 35cm
Chest 88cm

Manual or Computer Pattern Making

2008-02-21T19:44:00.000-08:00

In the Age of Computers and Technology why would you want to learn manual Pattern Making?? Well for one thing it's a good skill to be able to do it manually and not rely on computers and software for making a pattern. You get a better fit and you can actually be proud to have done it yourself. A Pattern Maker in the true sense of the term is not a pattern maker if he/she relies on software for making patterns and is unable to produce a pattern without this aide.

It's also an important skill to have for altering patterns purchased from commercial pattern companies and important if you are a dressmaker and designer.

Computer pattern making technology can be a bonus in the manufacturing industry particularly when they produce the same type of design over and over again. It speeds up the process of production saving the companies time and money.

Personally i've not really done any computer pattern making nor does it really interest me. I think that as a Pattern Maker it is important to be able to draft a pattern from scratch using measurements. You have better control over fit and proportions and appreciate the art and skill of pattern making.

Block construction

2008-02-20T22:24:00.000-08:00

Basic Blocks are used in the industry to speed up the process of making patterns and for accuracy of a pattern, thus ensuring a better fit.

Patterns are usually developed on cardboard paper using the flat pattern making system (two dimensions). Basic blocks are developed using measurements provided by the Australian Standards Association or they can be made using an indiviuduals measurments. Many Designers and Manufacturers have in house Models and use these measurements in the development of their own Basic Blocks.

Blocks are chosen which are close to the individuals measurments and according to which design they wish to create and then altered to create a new pattern design.

An individual can develop their own Basic Blocks using personal measurments to enable a more accurate fit to use again and again, thus avoiding many alterations.

It is a good idea to analyse each figure type whilst doing block construction and make all pattern alterations required for a perfect fit to avoid any problems being passed onto the next design.

I will be posting more information and instructions on Block Construction for skirts, sleeves, trousers and tops in the near future.

Why make a drill hole in a dart

2008-02-16T03:30:00.000-08:00

Drill holes in darts or other areas of the pattern piece is a marking technique used to show the Machinist the placement of the dart, where to start and end the dart and how wide to sew the dart. Drill holes are also used to show placement of pockets, tucks, pleats and other design details. The Machinist will usually sew .6mm past the drill holes for the width of the dart and the length of the dart may vary, which is usually stated on the pattern. Drill holes for pockets are usually placed .6mm in from the pocket placement. Drill holes are made on pattern pieces using a special device or even an awl can mark a drill hole.

Commercial Patterns & Made to Measure

2008-02-12T20:42:00.000-08:00

Made to measure patterns are a one off pattern made to the specific measurements of a person, allowing for a more accurate fit than that of a commercial pattern.

Commercial patterns are produced from measurements based on what industry calls "Standard measurements". In Australia we have our own set of standard measurements, which may vary from other countries. From past experience whenever I have used a commercial pattern from Europe I found that their measurements were smaller than ours.

The most popular commercial patterns such as McCalls, Vogue, Simplicity have their headquarters in the United States. Therefore, I assume that these patterns are produced in the United States using their standard measurements.

Commercial patterns are produced from measurements set by industry professionals and may vary from time to time depending on what the fashion is at the time. Pattern Makers, Designers need these measurements to create new designs and patterns.

There are so many body shapes and sizes that the industry is not able to accomodate everyone. It would be impossible and costly for manufacturers and designers to try and produce clothing to satisfy anyone who is not considered to be of standard size .

I would suggest that for your own personal block development for you to take your own measurements and record them and compare them to the Australian standard measurments, thus enabling you to create your own personal blocks for which you could use time after time adjusting the design as you please. You would avoid alot of alterations this way ensuring a better fit everytime. Basic blocks are easy to create and are definitely the better alternative to commercial patterns for the home dressmaker and for others.

Taking Measurements

2008-02-10T23:04:00.000-08:00

The first step in making a pattern is to take accurate measurments. There are many methods of taking measurements but the following method I find is quite accurate and detailed.
First of all take all measurements closely but not lightly.

All vertical measurements should be taken on one side only

Measure the figure over the undergarments to be worn beneath the finished garment.All horizontal measurements should be taken with the tape measure parallel to the floor except in the case of the chest measurement when it finds its own according to the figure.

BODICE MEASUREMENTS

1. Bust - Around the fullest part of the bust, ensuring tape measure does not slip down at the back.

2. Waist - Around natural waist line. ( It's a good idea to tie something around the waist and use this as a guide)

3. Hips - Around fullest part of the hips, generally over the bottom approx 20cm below the waist( 20cm is considered the standard measurement, but will vary from person to person)

4. Upper Hips - Around hip bones, approx 10cm below waist line

5. Back Length - From nape (back of neck) to waist line.

6. Front Length - From base of throat to natural waist line

7. Back width - From armhole to armhole about halfway down the armhole straight across

8. Chest - Around body, above bust and under arms

9. High chest - From armhole to armhole at the front approx 10cm below base of throat

10. Shoulder - From neck point to point at which arm begins and shoulder finishes

11. Scye Depth - From nape, down Centre back to lowest level of armhole

12. Scye Circumference - Around armhole, whilst arm is in normal position.

SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS

13. Neck to wrist - From side of neck, along shoulder, down the arm to wrist, make sure you allow the tape measure to follow the natural curve of the arm.

14. Under arm length - From underarm to wrist

15. Bicep - Around widest part of upper arm, high under the armpit

16. Wrist - Around widest part of the wrist.

17. Hand width - Around widest part of hand ( this measurement enables the cutter to make the wrist of the sleeve wide enough to pass over the hand if there is to be no opening.

18. Elbow width - Around elbow with arm bent

SKIRT MEASUREMENTS

(Waist and hip measurements are required as well as the following measurements)

19. Waist to knee length - From waist line down centre front to knee level

20. Waist to ankle length - From waist line down centre front to ankle level.

21. Skirt length - From waist line to length of skirt required.

TROUSER MEASUREMENTS

(Waist and hip measurments are required as well as the following measurements)

22. Body rise - From waist line, down to seat of chair, over contour of hips, the person should be seated on a solid and upright seat.

23. Inside leg length - Down from crutch to level of outside ankle bone

24. Outside leg length - Down from waist, over hips to ankle bone. The actual length of trousers will vary depending on fashion trends, the inside and outside leg measurements are only a guide and these measurements can be varied for any design required.

Please look at the following picture below with all the reference points.

My Advice

2008-02-06T14:33:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I received an email from a Freelance Pattern Maker from Europe asking me for my advice on "How to find company's to work for". I can only say that when I started freelancing I was actually working full time and a colleague of mine who was freelancing asked me if I could help her out as she had too much work. She put me in touch with this company and from there I started my business freelancing. I must say that most of the work that I did receive was via word of mouth, which is probably the best advertising that you can get and it's free!

If you want to advertise for work the best place is in trade magazines such as Ragtrader www.ragtrader.com.au which is the most widely read trade magazine. Rates are not cheap but it may be worth it if you intend on freelancing as a business. And it's also a good idea to network and get to know alot of people in the industry. Professional business cards are also a good idea or get your name out there by writing to company's directly telling them about your services.

Use the internet to advertise on seach engines or get your own website outlining your services and experience.

Working too much

2008-01-30T13:36:00.000-08:00

I'm currently freelancing for a jean company doing lots and lots of grading with many sizes, doesn't really give me much time to post when I have all this work with tight deadlines. Never mind I'll eventually get around to it. I have so much information to post that I don't know where to start.

For all of you who are interested in grading it is an excellent way to earn really good money. It's quite simple but you do need to have knowledge of the grade rules and know how to apply them. I have done lots of grading over the years and still enjoy doing it. Grade rules are different for men, women and childrenswear and other speciality lines. I will go into detail at a later date about Grading, so stay tuned. In the meantime I'll go back to grading as I need to finish lots of work by the end of the week.

How to read a Pattern

2008-01-26T12:22:00.000-08:00

I recommend that before you cut your fabric out that you study your pattern to avoid any costly mistakes because once you cut your fabric there is no turning back!!

Some of the things you should consider would be the suitability of the fabric, consider things like stripes, checks, florals, border prints, one way fabrics, shine of fabrics, etc.

Width of fabric

Direction of Grainline

Matching points

Woven or knit

Trimmings

Sewing equipment needed for example types of stitching, safety, open seams, french seams, coverstitch, mock stitch, baby lock

Good equipment for example sharp cutting shears

Seam and hem allowances

It's also a good idea to take a look at things like armhole shaping, sleeve shaping, once you become more familiar with pattern making you can see whether or not it's a good shape. Just because it's developed from a commercial pattern company doesn't necessarily mean that it has the right shaping, dart intake might be too big, consider making dart smaller. compare measurements of commercial patterns to your own measurements then adust before cutting out on fabric.

If you want to make a knit pattern into a woven pattern this would entail alot of work, like shaping, adding darts adding length and width.

If you want to make a woven pattern into a knit pattern, you would have to do the opposite, making it shorter in length and width, sometimes taking out darts (depends on the knit,as some knits may still require darts)

These are just some of the things to consider. Many people make the mistake of thinking that they should just cut out without looking into all of these things that I have mentioned, but if you want to avoid any costly mistakes please consider all of these points that I mentioned.

It's also a good idea to make up (especially if your sewing for someone else and getting paid for it) a prototype in a cheaper quality fabric, for example calico, so that you can avoid any mistakes and it also helps to do any alterations to the pattern first before cutting it out in the desired fabric.

However I must say that many of the commercial patterns do have very good instructions for sewing, recommended fabrics and alot of helpful information. So make sure you read the instructions sheets before you begin cutting or even before you choose your fabric, as many designs are not always suitable to the fabric that you wish to use.

The Pattern Maker

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In the past before the Pattern Maker emerged, Tailors produced garments using traditional skills and methods to make clothing. The tailor generally knew his clients body structure quite well along with any defects and he could modify and convert these onto the finished garment producing a garment that was made to measure.

The pattern maker emerged after the birth of industrial techniques. The Industrial Pattern Maker makes a pattern without knowing who the client is and uses standard measurements to produce a garment to any size. The pattern maker converts the sketch or sample created by the designer into a paper pattern for women, men and children.

The Industrial Pattern Maker plays an important role in the clothing industry and is therefore highly sought after and generally well paid. A career in Pattern Making is rewarding professionally and personally and is rewarding financially. Pattern makers are sought by high end Fashion Houses, Manufacturers, big and small boutiques, Made to measure boutiques and by private clients. If you are after a home based business then Pattern Making is one of those professions that allows you to work at home or freelance and work for many companies.

In many Fashion houses pattern makers and designers are synonymous and both may be multi skilled and have the knowledge to provide services that provides an economical situation for the company they work for. The Pattern Maker may find herself involved in various roles when employed by a Fashion Label. The pattern maker can be employed as a Designer/Pattern Maker, Pattern maker/Grader, Pattern Maker and Sample Machinist and even Pattern maker/Production Manager.

The Pattern makers job is to interpret designs and to construct patterns and to ensure that these patterns uphold the image of the label. The Pattern makers role involves participation in fit meetings with models and designers, grading of patterns, calculating estimates of fabric usage, checking accuracy of samples against pattern, alterations, assisting in production of markers if required, assisting in design and selecting appropriate trims for the styles and fabrics, production, liaising with outdoor makers or international makers, liaising with quality control departments, specification sheets and many other responsibilities

Generally speaking it is wise for the Pattern Maker to have knowledge not only in Pattern Making but also many other areas of design. It is a good idea to study many areas of fashion at Design School to ensure that you acquire a level of proficiency in all areas of fashion.

When I was studying fashion I studied many areas of fashion including sewing machine and stitching technology, pattern making at all levels, grading, marker making, computer pattern making and grading, evening wear, draping and many other subjects. It gave me enough skills and knowledge in order for me to be able to handle any job that was required of me. Being multi skilled I have been able to work in various roles and situations allowing me to gain experience in all areas of Fashion.

Pattern making equipment

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All pattern makers and designers need tools of the trade to make patterns and designs. These can include pattern hole punch, notchers, scissors, rulers, weights, awls, etc.

If you would like to purchase any pattern making and design equipment please let me know, here are the prices.

Pattern hole punch $155.00

Pattern Notcher $145.00

Grading ruler metric $30.00

Grading ruler metric & imperial $35.00

Pattern making scissors (Wiss brand) $130.00 for 10" shears

Pattern making scissors ( Wiss brand) $155.00 for 12" shears

Pattern making scissors ( Premax brand) $35.00 for 8" shears

Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $45.00 for 10" shears

Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $ 90.00 for 12" tailor shears

Clone your clothes

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Do you have a favourite top, skirt, jacket or even a favourite pair of jeans that you absolutely adore that is slowly fraying away is looking too tired and washed out and can't find another like it?? Well I have a solution for you, I am offering a new service to anyone who wants to reproduce that exact item of clothing.

Send me your favorite item of clothing so I can take the measurements for you, make your made to measure pattern, and I can either arrange for it to be custom made or I can make the pattern for you and you can make them up yourself or arrange someone else to make them up. I will guarantee that I will make your clothing as close as possible to the original item.

I will store your pattern into my database and anytime you order you can make any changes you feel will give you a better fit.

For more information click email me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com

Welcome

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Welcome to Making Fashion blog. My name is Anna and I've been working in the clothing industry for more than 14 years. I started this blog because I wanted to share my knowledge about the industry and in particular pattern making. I'm a pattern maker and have worked with men, women and children's patterns for many well known designers and manufacturers. You name it I've done it. I've also done lots of eveningwear requiring intricate pattern details.

Personally I'm 46 married to a wonderful man and have a beautiful little girl called Shanelle (and no I didn't put that name because of Coco Chanel) My daughter is the best thing that ever happened to me I thank God everyday for her existance! Oh and I forgot to mention our dog Zack he's part of the family too and so cute!

Next year i will be offering pattern making classes in person or by correspondence. I have a few projects on the agenda for next year so please bookmark my blog as I'm sure you will find lots of interesting articles and free stuff and links as well.

I studied pattern making and design at Box hill T.A.F.E. I recommend Box Hill T.A.F.E. as it is one of the best schools to learn everything about the industry, especially the technical side of things. Some colleges only specialise in design and don't really go into the manufacturing side of things which i think is important as some people don't realise what the clothing industry is really like, it's not just design and glamour, it's alot of hard work (and stress!!!). The courses at Box Hill T.A.F.E cater to both manufacturing and design. I studied all aspects of pattern making including womens and childrens pattern making and graduated with distinctions in these areas. I also studied draping and evening wear, I highly recommend these two specialised courses as you learn some amasing things!!

Take a look around at my blog I'm sure you will find some interesting articles, lessons and information to do with pattern making, grading, sewing and fashion in general. Feel free to ask questions or seek information, I will do my best to answer everyone. Enjoy!!