There are certain factors that you must take into consideration when grading.
(The following information is for size range 8 -16.)
1. Design proportion
2. Design Detail
3. Fabric
4. Trimmings
5. Size range
6. Machinist cost
7. Graders cost
8. Fabric marker
9. Nil grade areas
Nil Grade Areas
1. Any small pieces for example; tabs, yokes facing widths, cuffs, collar width, pleat width, frills, waistband width
2. Tucks and darts
3. Back shoulder dart, waist dart, elbow dart, back and front skirt darts, nil grade in length.
4. Frills and flounces, nil grade in width only - but length must be graded in proportion to the garment.
Some would same that button spacing is a nil grade and as you grade up you gain extra length and to add an extra button. I don't agree with this I always grade my button spacing accordingly for every size to keep them in proportion. You are not always able to add another button it depends on how much length grade you add. So I always calculate and maintain the correct proportion for the buttons.
Button size always remains the same size throughout. Lace, braid and applique are a set size.
When you consider fabric take into account factors such as repeat patterns, stripes, checks, floral, border prints, one way prints, etc.
Pattern notches should always remain in the same position and try to use the least amount of notches as it is easier to work with.
Grade rules for sizes: 8 - 16
Across Shoulder 1.2cm
Across Front 1.2cm
Across Back 1.2cm
Neck Width 0.6cm
Neck base opening 1.2cm
Shoulder Length 0.3cm
Sleeve Length from cervical 1.2cm
Sleeve Length from Shoulder point 0.6cm
Insleeve 0
Centre Back Nape to Waist 0.6cm
Skirt length 0
Side neck to waist 0.6cm
Vertical trunk 1.2cm
Armhole depth 0.6cm
Inleg to ground 0
Outleg to ground 0.6cm
Front crotch 0.9cm
Back crotch 0.9cm
Side neck to bust 0.6cm
Body rise 0.6cm
Bust circ. 5.0cm
Waist circ. 5.0cm
Hip circ. (20cm down) 5.0cm
Thigh circ. 3.1cm
Knee circ. 1.5cm
Hem circ. 5.0cm
Sleeve opening - long 0.6cm
Sleeve opening - short 1.2cm
Leg opening - legging 0.6cm
Leg opening - pant 1.2cm
Leg opening - short 2.5cm
Armhole circumference 1.6cm
Upper Arm Girth 1.2cm
Please note that insleeve length, skirt length and inleg to ground length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as some of them grade the lengths of skirts, pants and sleeves and their grading rules may also vary from the grading rules that I have mentioned above. However in menswear and childrenswear these lengths will definitely grade. You would subtract or add these measurments between sizes 8 to 16 depending on what size you use to start your grade.
I will be posting some lessons shortly on how to grade using the measurments above on various designs, so please stay tuned.
