Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Working with Leather

I did a couple of leather jacket patterns this week in between freelancing at a Jean company and other work. So it's been a busy couple of weeks for me. Working with leather is different to fabric. Some leather garment manufacturers glue leather seams together and then topstich for decorative finish and then there are others that sew seams together with a special leather needle. The leather needle is a three sided needle that have knife-like edges on either side of the point, it looks something like a diamond. Instead of making holes like an ordinary sewing needle the leather needle cuts tiny holes as it stitches through the thicknesses of the leather pieces. The Leather needle can be used to sew suede, vinyl, synthetic leathers, etc. Heavy thread is also recommended for sewing leather and a light foot and plate such as teflon, that won't drag the leather pieces causing the leather to pucker, stretch and cause damage to the top surface of the Leather.

When doing a pattern for leather you need to consider that you may have to design your pattern with more pieces in order to accomodate the size of the skins (hides). When doing so always remember to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces. With Leather Jackets the seams are usually put in the waist and centre back seams. Many other seams are put in places that are not visible, for example on a two piece jacket sleeve, the seam is placed under the lower sleeve, on a collar the seam is usually placed under the lower collar, etc.

When speaking to leather garment manufacturers they have said that the bigger the skin the harder it is and the smaller skins are usually softer and if you want softer leather in longer pieces it's usually very expensive.

I would suggest that if you intend to work with Leather it's best to do a course or read alot about leather to understand and familiarise yourself with the processes involved in Leather garment manufacturing and practice sewing on imitation leathers.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

International Pattern Making Job

For anyone who is interested I have been contacted by a human resource consultancy company in Dubai, who are keen to find a Pattern Maker to work over there. If there is anyone interested please contact me to discuss further and I will pass on the contact details. Refer to the job description as follows;

Garment Pattern Maker

The Client

Our client is a private bespoke couturier based in Abu Dhabi, UAE. For over 20 years these makers of quality hand-made women’s casual and evening clothing have been working with an exclusive list of clientele.

Our client specializes in designing and creating luxurious evening gowns and bridal wear and are renowned for offering their customers elite and personal couture designs. They are currently looking to grow their business in the region and are seeking qualified and experienced professionals to join their developing team.

The Position

Our client is seeking a Garment Pattern maker who will be the technical expert responsible for making the patterns for high-fashion clothing.

Job Description

- Draws outlines of clothing pieces into tracing paper and cutting out the pieces.
- Oversees the work of other pattern makers and add to their ongoing knowledge.
- Creates style patterns according to the information from Design and Management team.
- Ensures all pattern related deadline are met.
- Leads the fit process and up dates patterns and size specifications accordingly, ensuring other teams are in agreement with regards to fit needs per style.
- Keeps the respective interfaces updated of the change.
- Achieves consistency in fit by ensuring that style pattern is based on style templates.
- Responds to all inquiries concerning size tables or size specifications.
- Tests new garment constructions.
- Develops design for garment, adapts existing design for garment, or copies existing design for garment.
- Alters garment and joins parts, using needle and thread or sewing machine, to form finished garment.
- Draws individual pattern or alters existing pattern to fit customer's measurements.
- Confers with management to determine type of material and garment style desired.
- Positions pattern of garment parts on fabric, and cuts fabric along outlines, using scissors.
- Measures customer for size, using tape measure and records measurements.
- Fits basted garment on customer and marks areas requiring alterations.
- Assembles garment parts and joins parts with basting stitches, using needle and thread or sewing machine.

Profile & Background

- Degree in Fashion Design / Technical College / fashion school training in pattern making and/or grading
- English Speaking
- 5 + Years of experience
- Experience in high-end design

Location, Remuneration

- The position will be based in Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Highly competitive all-inclusive salary
- Annual economy return ticket to home country
- 30 Calendar days per year holiday entitlement

Friday, March 7, 2008

Size:10 Body Measurements

I've been so busy working that I haven't had much time to post, I'll eventually get around to it. Anyhow, I just thought I'd post some measurements for anyone looking for some measurments to make patterns or just curious.. I will list what I consider to be a good Size 10 measurements. Do keep in mind that every country has different measurments and even within Australia from manufacturer to manufacturer these measurments can vary. These measurments may vary due to the clientele of the company, for example a company manufacturing clothing for young women from age 18-25 sizes: 6-14 will have smaller measurments than a company doing clothing for women aged 25-40 sizes: 6 - 14 and so on. So measurements can make a difference even within the same size range. I'm just going to list what I think is a good size: 10 which can be suited to any one, in my opinion. These measurements are body measurements with no ease added.

Size: 10 Body Measurements

Across shoulder 39cm
Across Front 33cm
Across Back 35.5cm
Neck Width 15cm
Neck Circumference 36cm
Shoulder length 13cm
Sleeve length from CB Neck 78cm
Arm Length from shoulder point 58.5cm
Underarm 46cm
Centre Back Nape to waist 41cm
Side neck to waist at Front 43cm
Inleg to ground 80cm
Outleg to ground 106.5cm
Front crotch 30cm
Back crotch 38cm
Bust separation 20cm
Side neck to bust 26cm
Waist to hip 20cm
Body rise 26.5cm
Bust 91cm
Waist 69cm
Hip 96cm
Thigh 58cm
Knee 36cm
Wrist 16cm
Ankle 24cm
Armhole circumference 40cm
Upper arm girth 29cm
Elbow 26cm
Calf 35cm
Chest 88cm