I've been asked recently about types of fusing to use when making up a jacket. I would recommend woven fusing. It works great on jackets or anywhere else for that matter.
Area's you would fuse are entire front, no matter what type of fabric, back shoulder and underarm, all hems including sleeve and jacket hems, collars, lapels, facings, any pocket flaps, jets or welts. The fusing should extend over the foldline by at least 1cm to avoid any stress on the foldline.
And just remember when making pattern pieces for fusing it's good idea to trim some off to avoid a lot of thickness in the seams when sewing pieces together and it also helps the seams to remain flat.
The home dress maker would probably have other methods of fusing garments, the above methods are used mainly in manufacturing. But it's also a good method for anyone sewing at home.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Grading contd.....
There are certain factors that you must take into consideration when grading.
(The following information is for size range 8 -16.)
1. Design proportion
2. Design Detail
3. Fabric
4. Trimmings
5. Size range
6. Machinist cost
7. Graders cost
8. Fabric marker
9. Nil grade areas
Nil Grade Areas
1. Any small pieces for example; tabs, yokes facing widths, cuffs, collar width, pleat width, frills, waistband width
2. Tucks and darts
3. Back shoulder dart, waist dart, elbow dart, back and front skirt darts, nil grade in length.
4. Frills and flounces, nil grade in width only - but length must be graded in proportion to the garment.
Some would same that button spacing is a nil grade and as you grade up you gain extra length and to add an extra button. I don't agree with this I always grade my button spacing accordingly for every size to keep them in proportion. You are not always able to add another button it depends on how much length grade you add. So I always calculate and maintain the correct proportion for the buttons.
Button size always remains the same size throughout. Lace, braid and applique are a set size.
When you consider fabric take into account factors such as repeat patterns, stripes, checks, floral, border prints, one way prints, etc.
Pattern notches should always remain in the same position and try to use the least amount of notches as it is easier to work with.
Grade rules for sizes: 8 - 16
Across Shoulder 1.2cm
Across Front 1.2cm
Across Back 1.2cm
Neck Width 0.6cm
Neck base opening 1.2cm
Shoulder Length 0.3cm
Sleeve Length from cervical 1.2cm
Sleeve Length from Shoulder point 0.6cm
Insleeve 0
Centre Back Nape to Waist 0.6cm
Skirt length 0
Side neck to waist 0.6cm
Vertical trunk 1.2cm
Armhole depth 0.6cm
Inleg to ground 0
Outleg to ground 0.6cm
Front crotch 0.9cm
Back crotch 0.9cm
Side neck to bust 0.6cm
Body rise 0.6cm
Bust circ. 5.0cm
Waist circ. 5.0cm
Hip circ. (20cm down) 5.0cm
Thigh circ. 3.1cm
Knee circ. 1.5cm
Hem circ. 5.0cm
Sleeve opening - long 0.6cm
Sleeve opening - short 1.2cm
Leg opening - legging 0.6cm
Leg opening - pant 1.2cm
Leg opening - short 2.5cm
Armhole circumference 1.6cm
Upper Arm Girth 1.2cm
Please note that insleeve length, skirt length and inleg to ground length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as some of them grade the lengths of skirts, pants and sleeves and their grading rules may also vary from the grading rules that I have mentioned above. However in menswear and childrenswear these lengths will definitely grade. You would subtract or add these measurments between sizes 8 to 16 depending on what size you use to start your grade.
I will be posting some lessons shortly on how to grade using the measurments above on various designs, so please stay tuned.
(The following information is for size range 8 -16.)
1. Design proportion
2. Design Detail
3. Fabric
4. Trimmings
5. Size range
6. Machinist cost
7. Graders cost
8. Fabric marker
9. Nil grade areas
Nil Grade Areas
1. Any small pieces for example; tabs, yokes facing widths, cuffs, collar width, pleat width, frills, waistband width
2. Tucks and darts
3. Back shoulder dart, waist dart, elbow dart, back and front skirt darts, nil grade in length.
4. Frills and flounces, nil grade in width only - but length must be graded in proportion to the garment.
Some would same that button spacing is a nil grade and as you grade up you gain extra length and to add an extra button. I don't agree with this I always grade my button spacing accordingly for every size to keep them in proportion. You are not always able to add another button it depends on how much length grade you add. So I always calculate and maintain the correct proportion for the buttons.
Button size always remains the same size throughout. Lace, braid and applique are a set size.
When you consider fabric take into account factors such as repeat patterns, stripes, checks, floral, border prints, one way prints, etc.
Pattern notches should always remain in the same position and try to use the least amount of notches as it is easier to work with.
Grade rules for sizes: 8 - 16
Across Shoulder 1.2cm
Across Front 1.2cm
Across Back 1.2cm
Neck Width 0.6cm
Neck base opening 1.2cm
Shoulder Length 0.3cm
Sleeve Length from cervical 1.2cm
Sleeve Length from Shoulder point 0.6cm
Insleeve 0
Centre Back Nape to Waist 0.6cm
Skirt length 0
Side neck to waist 0.6cm
Vertical trunk 1.2cm
Armhole depth 0.6cm
Inleg to ground 0
Outleg to ground 0.6cm
Front crotch 0.9cm
Back crotch 0.9cm
Side neck to bust 0.6cm
Body rise 0.6cm
Bust circ. 5.0cm
Waist circ. 5.0cm
Hip circ. (20cm down) 5.0cm
Thigh circ. 3.1cm
Knee circ. 1.5cm
Hem circ. 5.0cm
Sleeve opening - long 0.6cm
Sleeve opening - short 1.2cm
Leg opening - legging 0.6cm
Leg opening - pant 1.2cm
Leg opening - short 2.5cm
Armhole circumference 1.6cm
Upper Arm Girth 1.2cm
Please note that insleeve length, skirt length and inleg to ground length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as some of them grade the lengths of skirts, pants and sleeves and their grading rules may also vary from the grading rules that I have mentioned above. However in menswear and childrenswear these lengths will definitely grade. You would subtract or add these measurments between sizes 8 to 16 depending on what size you use to start your grade.
I will be posting some lessons shortly on how to grade using the measurments above on various designs, so please stay tuned.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Start up companies
I've been flat out working freelancing at companies and also working from home doing many patterns for aspiring Fashion Designers. I applaud these new Designers for having the courage and determination to try out in this competitive world of Fashion. I receive many calls per week from young women and men who want to start up a fashion label asking for my opinion from where do I start, do I have any contacts and who can I recommend, etc.
Having worked in the Fashion business I guess if I was to start up a label it would be easier for me as I would know my way around the business of Fashion. I wouldn't have as many costs as someone who has no experience or skills in Fashion as I am able to Design, do patterns, grading and production and I know the procedure from a sketch to finished product.. But for those that don't know anything about the fashion world it can come to quite a shock to find out the costs involved in just producing a few items of clothing and the time and effort it takes to release a range.
Wouldn't it be nice to have a book and a directory that would save the aspiring Designer all the leg work and frustration of having to source everything from beginning to end? Of course it would then it would make life much easier. A book on How to start a Fashion Label with all the instructions on how to go about it and where to source everything from pattern makers to manufacturers and everything in between.
Stay tuned as I am writing a book on "How to start a Fashion Label" with instructions and a directory of everything from pattern makers, fabric wholesalers, local and offshore manufacturers, etc.
If any business would like to be listed in this directory please contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com
Having worked in the Fashion business I guess if I was to start up a label it would be easier for me as I would know my way around the business of Fashion. I wouldn't have as many costs as someone who has no experience or skills in Fashion as I am able to Design, do patterns, grading and production and I know the procedure from a sketch to finished product.. But for those that don't know anything about the fashion world it can come to quite a shock to find out the costs involved in just producing a few items of clothing and the time and effort it takes to release a range.
Wouldn't it be nice to have a book and a directory that would save the aspiring Designer all the leg work and frustration of having to source everything from beginning to end? Of course it would then it would make life much easier. A book on How to start a Fashion Label with all the instructions on how to go about it and where to source everything from pattern makers to manufacturers and everything in between.
Stay tuned as I am writing a book on "How to start a Fashion Label" with instructions and a directory of everything from pattern makers, fabric wholesalers, local and offshore manufacturers, etc.
If any business would like to be listed in this directory please contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Pattern Grading
The skill of Pattern Grading involves using a master pattern and moving it according to a set of grading rules and measurments that are predetermined by industry and other bodies to increase or decrease the size but to retain the proportion of the original master pattern.
As a grader you must prepare a grading plan to allow for proportional distribution of measurements, according to the style or design of the master pattern.
This grading plan is then followed by the Pattern Grader who moves the master pattern, marking in all the grading points. All pattern movements are of 90deg to either the Centre Front, Centre Back or Straight Grain of all pattern pieces. A circular path (either clockwise or anticlockwise) is followed when marking grading points. Then finally these points are blended together to produce a pattern piece/s of the required size.
A pattern may be graded with all sizes showing on the one sheet. This is called a "Nest" and finished pattern pieces will be taken from this at a later stage. Some of the commercial patterns are sold in this manner with sizes grouped together in a nest.
Another method of grading allows for the pattern to be graded one size at a time, the new pattern piece cut out and then used to make the next size etc. This is the method that I use all the time, I find that it works the best for me.
There is also another way to grade and that is using the master pattern to make all the sizes without cutting each one out first. So you would use for example the master pattern size 10 to make 8,12, 14, 16, without cutting out the previous size always using the master pattern.
Before begining to grade it is important to check the accuracy of the pattern, the amount of pieces and the pattern markings of the master pattern.
In Australia grading is used within the clothing industry and patterns are altered by size according to Australian standard measurements, to purchase Australian standard measurements click on the following link: http://www.saiglobal.com/shop/Script/ICSDocBrowse.asp?Code=61.020&StdType=AS
This technique of grading can also be adapted to grade patterns to an individual's measurements, for example private dressmakers may use this technique or something similar to adapt a pattern to fit her customers measurements. Other industry people such as boutiques and designers may use this technique to adust patterns.
Advances in technology has over the years made grading more efficient and quicker resulting in faster production . However, it is important that the operator of the computer must have the knowledge, skills and experience in both the principles and practices of Pattern Grading.
I will be offering in the near future 17 lessons on "How to Grade". If you would like to take the lessons please email me and I will put you on a waiting list and as soon as I release the lessons I will contact you. The cost will be approximately AUS$200.00. The lessons will be by correspondence.
By the end of the lessons you will have the knowledge and skills to be able to grade any garment using the grading measurements and rules.
Contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com if you wish to take the lessons.
If you're a business and need some professional grading done then please contact me for pricing.
As a grader you must prepare a grading plan to allow for proportional distribution of measurements, according to the style or design of the master pattern.
This grading plan is then followed by the Pattern Grader who moves the master pattern, marking in all the grading points. All pattern movements are of 90deg to either the Centre Front, Centre Back or Straight Grain of all pattern pieces. A circular path (either clockwise or anticlockwise) is followed when marking grading points. Then finally these points are blended together to produce a pattern piece/s of the required size.
A pattern may be graded with all sizes showing on the one sheet. This is called a "Nest" and finished pattern pieces will be taken from this at a later stage. Some of the commercial patterns are sold in this manner with sizes grouped together in a nest.
Another method of grading allows for the pattern to be graded one size at a time, the new pattern piece cut out and then used to make the next size etc. This is the method that I use all the time, I find that it works the best for me.
There is also another way to grade and that is using the master pattern to make all the sizes without cutting each one out first. So you would use for example the master pattern size 10 to make 8,12, 14, 16, without cutting out the previous size always using the master pattern.
Before begining to grade it is important to check the accuracy of the pattern, the amount of pieces and the pattern markings of the master pattern.
In Australia grading is used within the clothing industry and patterns are altered by size according to Australian standard measurements, to purchase Australian standard measurements click on the following link: http://www.saiglobal.com/shop/Script/ICSDocBrowse.asp?Code=61.020&StdType=AS
This technique of grading can also be adapted to grade patterns to an individual's measurements, for example private dressmakers may use this technique or something similar to adapt a pattern to fit her customers measurements. Other industry people such as boutiques and designers may use this technique to adust patterns.
Advances in technology has over the years made grading more efficient and quicker resulting in faster production . However, it is important that the operator of the computer must have the knowledge, skills and experience in both the principles and practices of Pattern Grading.
I will be offering in the near future 17 lessons on "How to Grade". If you would like to take the lessons please email me and I will put you on a waiting list and as soon as I release the lessons I will contact you. The cost will be approximately AUS$200.00. The lessons will be by correspondence.
By the end of the lessons you will have the knowledge and skills to be able to grade any garment using the grading measurements and rules.
Contact me at makingfashion.blog@gmail.com if you wish to take the lessons.
If you're a business and need some professional grading done then please contact me for pricing.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Working with Leather
I did a couple of leather jacket patterns this week in between freelancing at a Jean company and other work. So it's been a busy couple of weeks for me. Working with leather is different to fabric. Some leather garment manufacturers glue leather seams together and then topstich for decorative finish and then there are others that sew seams together with a special leather needle. The leather needle is a three sided needle that have knife-like edges on either side of the point, it looks something like a diamond. Instead of making holes like an ordinary sewing needle the leather needle cuts tiny holes as it stitches through the thicknesses of the leather pieces. The Leather needle can be used to sew suede, vinyl, synthetic leathers, etc. Heavy thread is also recommended for sewing leather and a light foot and plate such as teflon, that won't drag the leather pieces causing the leather to pucker, stretch and cause damage to the top surface of the Leather.
When doing a pattern for leather you need to consider that you may have to design your pattern with more pieces in order to accomodate the size of the skins (hides). When doing so always remember to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces. With Leather Jackets the seams are usually put in the waist and centre back seams. Many other seams are put in places that are not visible, for example on a two piece jacket sleeve, the seam is placed under the lower sleeve, on a collar the seam is usually placed under the lower collar, etc.
When speaking to leather garment manufacturers they have said that the bigger the skin the harder it is and the smaller skins are usually softer and if you want softer leather in longer pieces it's usually very expensive.
I would suggest that if you intend to work with Leather it's best to do a course or read alot about leather to understand and familiarise yourself with the processes involved in Leather garment manufacturing and practice sewing on imitation leathers.
When doing a pattern for leather you need to consider that you may have to design your pattern with more pieces in order to accomodate the size of the skins (hides). When doing so always remember to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces. With Leather Jackets the seams are usually put in the waist and centre back seams. Many other seams are put in places that are not visible, for example on a two piece jacket sleeve, the seam is placed under the lower sleeve, on a collar the seam is usually placed under the lower collar, etc.
When speaking to leather garment manufacturers they have said that the bigger the skin the harder it is and the smaller skins are usually softer and if you want softer leather in longer pieces it's usually very expensive.
I would suggest that if you intend to work with Leather it's best to do a course or read alot about leather to understand and familiarise yourself with the processes involved in Leather garment manufacturing and practice sewing on imitation leathers.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
International Pattern Making Job
For anyone who is interested I have been contacted by a human resource consultancy company in Dubai, who are keen to find a Pattern Maker to work over there. If there is anyone interested please contact me to discuss further and I will pass on the contact details. Refer to the job description as follows;
Garment Pattern Maker
The Client
Our client is a private bespoke couturier based in Abu Dhabi, UAE. For over 20 years these makers of quality hand-made women’s casual and evening clothing have been working with an exclusive list of clientele.
Our client specializes in designing and creating luxurious evening gowns and bridal wear and are renowned for offering their customers elite and personal couture designs. They are currently looking to grow their business in the region and are seeking qualified and experienced professionals to join their developing team.
The Position
Our client is seeking a Garment Pattern maker who will be the technical expert responsible for making the patterns for high-fashion clothing.
Job Description
- Draws outlines of clothing pieces into tracing paper and cutting out the pieces.
- Oversees the work of other pattern makers and add to their ongoing knowledge.
- Creates style patterns according to the information from Design and Management team.
- Ensures all pattern related deadline are met.
- Leads the fit process and up dates patterns and size specifications accordingly, ensuring other teams are in agreement with regards to fit needs per style.
- Keeps the respective interfaces updated of the change.
- Achieves consistency in fit by ensuring that style pattern is based on style templates.
- Responds to all inquiries concerning size tables or size specifications.
- Tests new garment constructions.
- Develops design for garment, adapts existing design for garment, or copies existing design for garment.
- Alters garment and joins parts, using needle and thread or sewing machine, to form finished garment.
- Draws individual pattern or alters existing pattern to fit customer's measurements.
- Confers with management to determine type of material and garment style desired.
- Positions pattern of garment parts on fabric, and cuts fabric along outlines, using scissors.
- Measures customer for size, using tape measure and records measurements.
- Fits basted garment on customer and marks areas requiring alterations.
- Assembles garment parts and joins parts with basting stitches, using needle and thread or sewing machine.
Profile & Background
- Degree in Fashion Design / Technical College / fashion school training in pattern making and/or grading
- English Speaking
- 5 + Years of experience
- Experience in high-end design
Location, Remuneration
- The position will be based in Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Highly competitive all-inclusive salary
- Annual economy return ticket to home country
- 30 Calendar days per year holiday entitlement
The Client
Our client is a private bespoke couturier based in Abu Dhabi, UAE. For over 20 years these makers of quality hand-made women’s casual and evening clothing have been working with an exclusive list of clientele.
Our client specializes in designing and creating luxurious evening gowns and bridal wear and are renowned for offering their customers elite and personal couture designs. They are currently looking to grow their business in the region and are seeking qualified and experienced professionals to join their developing team.
The Position
Our client is seeking a Garment Pattern maker who will be the technical expert responsible for making the patterns for high-fashion clothing.
Job Description
- Draws outlines of clothing pieces into tracing paper and cutting out the pieces.
- Oversees the work of other pattern makers and add to their ongoing knowledge.
- Creates style patterns according to the information from Design and Management team.
- Ensures all pattern related deadline are met.
- Leads the fit process and up dates patterns and size specifications accordingly, ensuring other teams are in agreement with regards to fit needs per style.
- Keeps the respective interfaces updated of the change.
- Achieves consistency in fit by ensuring that style pattern is based on style templates.
- Responds to all inquiries concerning size tables or size specifications.
- Tests new garment constructions.
- Develops design for garment, adapts existing design for garment, or copies existing design for garment.
- Alters garment and joins parts, using needle and thread or sewing machine, to form finished garment.
- Draws individual pattern or alters existing pattern to fit customer's measurements.
- Confers with management to determine type of material and garment style desired.
- Positions pattern of garment parts on fabric, and cuts fabric along outlines, using scissors.
- Measures customer for size, using tape measure and records measurements.
- Fits basted garment on customer and marks areas requiring alterations.
- Assembles garment parts and joins parts with basting stitches, using needle and thread or sewing machine.
Profile & Background
- Degree in Fashion Design / Technical College / fashion school training in pattern making and/or grading
- English Speaking
- 5 + Years of experience
- Experience in high-end design
Location, Remuneration
- The position will be based in Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Highly competitive all-inclusive salary
- Annual economy return ticket to home country
- 30 Calendar days per year holiday entitlement
Friday, March 7, 2008
Size:10 Body Measurements
I've been so busy working that I haven't had much time to post, I'll eventually get around to it. Anyhow, I just thought I'd post some measurements for anyone looking for some measurments to make patterns or just curious.. I will list what I consider to be a good Size 10 measurements. Do keep in mind that every country has different measurments and even within Australia from manufacturer to manufacturer these measurments can vary. These measurments may vary due to the clientele of the company, for example a company manufacturing clothing for young women from age 18-25 sizes: 6-14 will have smaller measurments than a company doing clothing for women aged 25-40 sizes: 6 - 14 and so on. So measurements can make a difference even within the same size range. I'm just going to list what I think is a good size: 10 which can be suited to any one, in my opinion. These measurements are body measurements with no ease added.
Across shoulder 39cm
Across Front 33cm
Across Back 35.5cm
Neck Width 15cm
Neck Circumference 36cm
Shoulder length 13cm
Sleeve length from CB Neck 78cm
Arm Length from shoulder point 58.5cm
Underarm 46cm
Centre Back Nape to waist 41cm
Side neck to waist at Front 43cm
Inleg to ground 80cm
Outleg to ground 106.5cm
Front crotch 30cm
Back crotch 38cm
Bust separation 20cm
Side neck to bust 26cm
Waist to hip 20cm
Body rise 26.5cm
Bust 91cm
Waist 69cm
Hip 96cm
Thigh 58cm
Knee 36cm
Wrist 16cm
Ankle 24cm
Armhole circumference 40cm
Upper arm girth 29cm
Elbow 26cm
Calf 35cm
Chest 88cm
Size: 10 Body Measurements
Across shoulder 39cm
Across Front 33cm
Across Back 35.5cm
Neck Width 15cm
Neck Circumference 36cm
Shoulder length 13cm
Sleeve length from CB Neck 78cm
Arm Length from shoulder point 58.5cm
Underarm 46cm
Centre Back Nape to waist 41cm
Side neck to waist at Front 43cm
Inleg to ground 80cm
Outleg to ground 106.5cm
Front crotch 30cm
Back crotch 38cm
Bust separation 20cm
Side neck to bust 26cm
Waist to hip 20cm
Body rise 26.5cm
Bust 91cm
Waist 69cm
Hip 96cm
Thigh 58cm
Knee 36cm
Wrist 16cm
Ankle 24cm
Armhole circumference 40cm
Upper arm girth 29cm
Elbow 26cm
Calf 35cm
Chest 88cm
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Block construction
Basic Blocks are used in the industry to speed up the process of making patterns and for accuracy of a pattern, thus ensuring a better fit.
Patterns are usually developed on cardboard paper using the flat pattern making system (two dimensions). Basic blocks are developed using measurements provided by the Australian Standards Association or they can be made using an indiviuduals measurments. Many Designers and Manufacturers have in house Models and use these measurements in the development of their own Basic Blocks.
Blocks are chosen which are close to the individuals measurments and according to which design they wish to create and then altered to create a new pattern design.
An individual can develop their own Basic Blocks using personal measurments to enable a more accurate fit to use again and again, thus avoiding many alterations.
It is a good idea to analyse each figure type whilst doing block construction and make all pattern alterations required for a perfect fit to avoid any problems being passed onto the next design.
I will be posting more information and instructions on Block Construction for skirts, sleeves, trousers and tops in the near future.
Patterns are usually developed on cardboard paper using the flat pattern making system (two dimensions). Basic blocks are developed using measurements provided by the Australian Standards Association or they can be made using an indiviuduals measurments. Many Designers and Manufacturers have in house Models and use these measurements in the development of their own Basic Blocks.
Blocks are chosen which are close to the individuals measurments and according to which design they wish to create and then altered to create a new pattern design.
An individual can develop their own Basic Blocks using personal measurments to enable a more accurate fit to use again and again, thus avoiding many alterations.
It is a good idea to analyse each figure type whilst doing block construction and make all pattern alterations required for a perfect fit to avoid any problems being passed onto the next design.
I will be posting more information and instructions on Block Construction for skirts, sleeves, trousers and tops in the near future.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Why make a drill hole in a dart
Drill holes in darts or other areas of the pattern piece is a marking technique used to show the Machinist the placement of the dart, where to start and end the dart and how wide to sew the dart. Drill holes are also used to show placement of pockets, tucks, pleats and other design details. The Machinist will usually sew .6mm past the drill holes for the width of the dart and the length of the dart may vary, which is usually stated on the pattern. Drill holes for pockets are usually placed .6mm in from the pocket placement. Drill holes are made on pattern pieces using a special device or even an awl can mark a drill hole.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Commercial Patterns & Made to Measure
Made to measure patterns are a one off pattern made to the specific measurements of a person, allowing for a more accurate fit than that of a commercial pattern.
Commercial patterns are produced from measurements based on what industry calls "Standard measurements". In Australia we have our own set of standard measurements, which may vary from other countries. From past experience whenever I have used a commercial pattern from Europe I found that their measurements were smaller than ours.
The most popular commercial patterns such as McCalls, Vogue, Simplicity have their headquarters in the United States. Therefore, I assume that these patterns are produced in the United States using their standard measurements.
Commercial patterns are produced from measurements set by industry professionals and may vary from time to time depending on what the fashion is at the time. Pattern Makers, Designers need these measurements to create new designs and patterns.
There are so many body shapes and sizes that the industry is not able to accomodate everyone. It would be impossible and costly for manufacturers and designers to try and produce clothing to satisfy anyone who is not considered to be of standard size .
I would suggest that for your own personal block development for you to take your own measurements and record them and compare them to the Australian standard measurments, thus enabling you to create your own personal blocks for which you could use time after time adjusting the design as you please. You would avoid alot of alterations this way ensuring a better fit everytime. Basic blocks are easy to create and are definitely the better alternative to commercial patterns for the home dressmaker and for others.
Commercial patterns are produced from measurements based on what industry calls "Standard measurements". In Australia we have our own set of standard measurements, which may vary from other countries. From past experience whenever I have used a commercial pattern from Europe I found that their measurements were smaller than ours.
The most popular commercial patterns such as McCalls, Vogue, Simplicity have their headquarters in the United States. Therefore, I assume that these patterns are produced in the United States using their standard measurements.
Commercial patterns are produced from measurements set by industry professionals and may vary from time to time depending on what the fashion is at the time. Pattern Makers, Designers need these measurements to create new designs and patterns.
There are so many body shapes and sizes that the industry is not able to accomodate everyone. It would be impossible and costly for manufacturers and designers to try and produce clothing to satisfy anyone who is not considered to be of standard size .
I would suggest that for your own personal block development for you to take your own measurements and record them and compare them to the Australian standard measurments, thus enabling you to create your own personal blocks for which you could use time after time adjusting the design as you please. You would avoid alot of alterations this way ensuring a better fit everytime. Basic blocks are easy to create and are definitely the better alternative to commercial patterns for the home dressmaker and for others.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Taking Measurements
The first step in making a pattern is to take accurate measurments. There are many methods of taking measurements but the following method I find is quite accurate and detailed.
First of all take all measurements closely but not lightly.
All vertical measurements should be taken on one side only
Measure the figure over the undergarments to be worn beneath the finished garment.All horizontal measurements should be taken with the tape measure parallel to the floor except in the case of the chest measurement when it finds its own according to the figure.
BODICE MEASUREMENTS
1. Bust - Around the fullest part of the bust, ensuring tape measure does not slip down at the back.
2. Waist - Around natural waist line. ( It's a good idea to tie something around the waist and use this as a guide)
3. Hips - Around fullest part of the hips, generally over the bottom approx 20cm below the waist( 20cm is considered the standard measurement, but will vary from person to person)
4. Upper Hips - Around hip bones, approx 10cm below waist line
5. Back Length - From nape (back of neck) to waist line.
6. Front Length - From base of throat to natural waist line
7. Back width - From armhole to armhole about halfway down the armhole straight across
8. Chest - Around body, above bust and under arms
9. High chest - From armhole to armhole at the front approx 10cm below base of throat
10. Shoulder - From neck point to point at which arm begins and shoulder finishes
11. Scye Depth - From nape, down Centre back to lowest level of armhole
12. Scye Circumference - Around armhole, whilst arm is in normal position.
SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS
13. Neck to wrist - From side of neck, along shoulder, down the arm to wrist, make sure you allow the tape measure to follow the natural curve of the arm.
14. Under arm length - From underarm to wrist
15. Bicep - Around widest part of upper arm, high under the armpit
16. Wrist - Around widest part of the wrist.
17. Hand width - Around widest part of hand ( this measurement enables the cutter to make the wrist of the sleeve wide enough to pass over the hand if there is to be no opening.
18. Elbow width - Around elbow with arm bent
SKIRT MEASUREMENTS
(Waist and hip measurements are required as well as the following measurements)
19. Waist to knee length - From waist line down centre front to knee level
20. Waist to ankle length - From waist line down centre front to ankle level.
21. Skirt length - From waist line to length of skirt required.
TROUSER MEASUREMENTS
(Waist and hip measurments are required as well as the following measurements)
22. Body rise - From waist line, down to seat of chair, over contour of hips, the person should be seated on a solid and upright seat.
23. Inside leg length - Down from crutch to level of outside ankle bone
24. Outside leg length - Down from waist, over hips to ankle bone. The actual length of trousers will vary depending on fashion trends, the inside and outside leg measurements are only a guide and these measurements can be varied for any design required.
Please look at the following picture below with all the reference points.
First of all take all measurements closely but not lightly.
All vertical measurements should be taken on one side only
Measure the figure over the undergarments to be worn beneath the finished garment.All horizontal measurements should be taken with the tape measure parallel to the floor except in the case of the chest measurement when it finds its own according to the figure.
BODICE MEASUREMENTS
1. Bust - Around the fullest part of the bust, ensuring tape measure does not slip down at the back.
2. Waist - Around natural waist line. ( It's a good idea to tie something around the waist and use this as a guide)
3. Hips - Around fullest part of the hips, generally over the bottom approx 20cm below the waist( 20cm is considered the standard measurement, but will vary from person to person)
4. Upper Hips - Around hip bones, approx 10cm below waist line
5. Back Length - From nape (back of neck) to waist line.
6. Front Length - From base of throat to natural waist line
7. Back width - From armhole to armhole about halfway down the armhole straight across
8. Chest - Around body, above bust and under arms
9. High chest - From armhole to armhole at the front approx 10cm below base of throat
10. Shoulder - From neck point to point at which arm begins and shoulder finishes
11. Scye Depth - From nape, down Centre back to lowest level of armhole
12. Scye Circumference - Around armhole, whilst arm is in normal position.
SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS
13. Neck to wrist - From side of neck, along shoulder, down the arm to wrist, make sure you allow the tape measure to follow the natural curve of the arm.
14. Under arm length - From underarm to wrist
15. Bicep - Around widest part of upper arm, high under the armpit
16. Wrist - Around widest part of the wrist.
17. Hand width - Around widest part of hand ( this measurement enables the cutter to make the wrist of the sleeve wide enough to pass over the hand if there is to be no opening.
18. Elbow width - Around elbow with arm bent
SKIRT MEASUREMENTS
(Waist and hip measurements are required as well as the following measurements)
19. Waist to knee length - From waist line down centre front to knee level
20. Waist to ankle length - From waist line down centre front to ankle level.
21. Skirt length - From waist line to length of skirt required.
TROUSER MEASUREMENTS
(Waist and hip measurments are required as well as the following measurements)
22. Body rise - From waist line, down to seat of chair, over contour of hips, the person should be seated on a solid and upright seat.
23. Inside leg length - Down from crutch to level of outside ankle bone
24. Outside leg length - Down from waist, over hips to ankle bone. The actual length of trousers will vary depending on fashion trends, the inside and outside leg measurements are only a guide and these measurements can be varied for any design required.
Please look at the following picture below with all the reference points.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
My Advice
Yesterday I received an email from a Freelance Pattern Maker from Europe asking me for my advice on "How to find company's to work for". I can only say that when I started freelancing I was actually working full time and a colleague of mine who was freelancing asked me if I could help her out as she had too much work. She put me in touch with this company and from there I started my business freelancing. I must say that most of the work that I did receive was via word of mouth, which is probably the best advertising that you can get and it's free!
If you want to advertise for work the best place is in trade magazines such as Ragtrader www.ragtrader.com.au which is the most widely read trade magazine. Rates are not cheap but it may be worth it if you intend on freelancing as a business. And it's also a good idea to network and get to know alot of people in the industry. Professional business cards are also a good idea or get your name out there by writing to company's directly telling them about your services.
Use the internet to advertise on seach engines or get your own website outlining your services and experience.
If you want to advertise for work the best place is in trade magazines such as Ragtrader www.ragtrader.com.au which is the most widely read trade magazine. Rates are not cheap but it may be worth it if you intend on freelancing as a business. And it's also a good idea to network and get to know alot of people in the industry. Professional business cards are also a good idea or get your name out there by writing to company's directly telling them about your services.
Use the internet to advertise on seach engines or get your own website outlining your services and experience.
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Working too much
I'm currently freelancing for a jean company doing lots and lots of grading with many sizes, doesn't really give me much time to post when I have all this work with tight deadlines. Never mind I'll eventually get around to it. I have so much information to post that I don't know where to start.
For all of you who are interested in grading it is an excellent way to earn really good money. It's quite simple but you do need to have knowledge of the grade rules and know how to apply them. I have done lots of grading over the years and still enjoy doing it. Grade rules are different for men, women and childrenswear and other speciality lines. I will go into detail at a later date about Grading, so stay tuned. In the meantime I'll go back to grading as I need to finish lots of work by the end of the week.
For all of you who are interested in grading it is an excellent way to earn really good money. It's quite simple but you do need to have knowledge of the grade rules and know how to apply them. I have done lots of grading over the years and still enjoy doing it. Grade rules are different for men, women and childrenswear and other speciality lines. I will go into detail at a later date about Grading, so stay tuned. In the meantime I'll go back to grading as I need to finish lots of work by the end of the week.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
How to read a Pattern
I recommend that before you cut your fabric out that you study your pattern to avoid any costly mistakes because once you cut your fabric there is no turning back!!
Some of the things you should consider would be the suitability of the fabric, consider things like stripes, checks, florals, border prints, one way fabrics, shine of fabrics, etc.
Width of fabric
Direction of Grainline
Matching points
Woven or knit
Trimmings
Sewing equipment needed for example types of stitching, safety, open seams, french seams, coverstitch, mock stitch, baby lock
Good equipment for example sharp cutting shears
Seam and hem allowances
It's also a good idea to take a look at things like armhole shaping, sleeve shaping, once you become more familiar with pattern making you can see whether or not it's a good shape. Just because it's developed from a commercial pattern company doesn't necessarily mean that it has the right shaping, dart intake might be too big, consider making dart smaller. compare measurements of commercial patterns to your own measurements then adust before cutting out on fabric.
If you want to make a knit pattern into a woven pattern this would entail alot of work, like shaping, adding darts adding length and width.
If you want to make a woven pattern into a knit pattern, you would have to do the opposite, making it shorter in length and width, sometimes taking out darts (depends on the knit,as some knits may still require darts)
These are just some of the things to consider. Many people make the mistake of thinking that they should just cut out without looking into all of these things that I have mentioned, but if you want to avoid any costly mistakes please consider all of these points that I mentioned.
It's also a good idea to make up (especially if your sewing for someone else and getting paid for it) a prototype in a cheaper quality fabric, for example calico, so that you can avoid any mistakes and it also helps to do any alterations to the pattern first before cutting it out in the desired fabric.
However I must say that many of the commercial patterns do have very good instructions for sewing, recommended fabrics and alot of helpful information. So make sure you read the instructions sheets before you begin cutting or even before you choose your fabric, as many designs are not always suitable to the fabric that you wish to use.
Some of the things you should consider would be the suitability of the fabric, consider things like stripes, checks, florals, border prints, one way fabrics, shine of fabrics, etc.
Width of fabric
Direction of Grainline
Matching points
Woven or knit
Trimmings
Sewing equipment needed for example types of stitching, safety, open seams, french seams, coverstitch, mock stitch, baby lock
Good equipment for example sharp cutting shears
Seam and hem allowances
It's also a good idea to take a look at things like armhole shaping, sleeve shaping, once you become more familiar with pattern making you can see whether or not it's a good shape. Just because it's developed from a commercial pattern company doesn't necessarily mean that it has the right shaping, dart intake might be too big, consider making dart smaller. compare measurements of commercial patterns to your own measurements then adust before cutting out on fabric.
If you want to make a knit pattern into a woven pattern this would entail alot of work, like shaping, adding darts adding length and width.
If you want to make a woven pattern into a knit pattern, you would have to do the opposite, making it shorter in length and width, sometimes taking out darts (depends on the knit,as some knits may still require darts)
These are just some of the things to consider. Many people make the mistake of thinking that they should just cut out without looking into all of these things that I have mentioned, but if you want to avoid any costly mistakes please consider all of these points that I mentioned.
It's also a good idea to make up (especially if your sewing for someone else and getting paid for it) a prototype in a cheaper quality fabric, for example calico, so that you can avoid any mistakes and it also helps to do any alterations to the pattern first before cutting it out in the desired fabric.
However I must say that many of the commercial patterns do have very good instructions for sewing, recommended fabrics and alot of helpful information. So make sure you read the instructions sheets before you begin cutting or even before you choose your fabric, as many designs are not always suitable to the fabric that you wish to use.
Friday, January 25, 2008
The Pattern Maker
In the past before the Pattern Maker emerged, Tailors produced garments using traditional skills and methods to make clothing. The tailor generally knew his clients body structure quite well along with any defects and he could modify and convert these onto the finished garment producing a garment that was made to measure.
The pattern maker emerged after the birth of industrial techniques. The Industrial Pattern Maker makes a pattern without knowing who the client is and uses standard measurements to produce a garment to any size. The pattern maker converts the sketch or sample created by the designer into a paper pattern for women, men and children.
The Industrial Pattern Maker plays an important role in the clothing industry and is therefore highly sought after and generally well paid. A career in Pattern Making is rewarding professionally and personally and is rewarding financially. Pattern makers are sought by high end Fashion Houses, Manufacturers, big and small boutiques, Made to measure boutiques and by private clients. If you are after a home based business then Pattern Making is one of those professions that allows you to work at home or freelance and work for many companies.
In many Fashion houses pattern makers and designers are synonymous and both may be multi skilled and have the knowledge to provide services that provides an economical situation for the company they work for. The Pattern Maker may find herself involved in various roles when employed by a Fashion Label. The pattern maker can be employed as a Designer/Pattern Maker, Pattern maker/Grader, Pattern Maker and Sample Machinist and even Pattern maker/Production Manager.
The Pattern makers job is to interpret designs and to construct patterns and to ensure that these patterns uphold the image of the label. The Pattern makers role involves participation in fit meetings with models and designers, grading of patterns, calculating estimates of fabric usage, checking accuracy of samples against pattern, alterations, assisting in production of markers if required, assisting in design and selecting appropriate trims for the styles and fabrics, production, liaising with outdoor makers or international makers, liaising with quality control departments, specification sheets and many other responsibilities
Generally speaking it is wise for the Pattern Maker to have knowledge not only in Pattern Making but also many other areas of design. It is a good idea to study many areas of fashion at Design School to ensure that you acquire a level of proficiency in all areas of fashion.
When I was studying fashion I studied many areas of fashion including sewing machine and stitching technology, pattern making at all levels, grading, marker making, computer pattern making and grading, evening wear, draping and many other subjects. It gave me enough skills and knowledge in order for me to be able to handle any job that was required of me. Being multi skilled I have been able to work in various roles and situations allowing me to gain experience in all areas of Fashion.
The pattern maker emerged after the birth of industrial techniques. The Industrial Pattern Maker makes a pattern without knowing who the client is and uses standard measurements to produce a garment to any size. The pattern maker converts the sketch or sample created by the designer into a paper pattern for women, men and children.
The Industrial Pattern Maker plays an important role in the clothing industry and is therefore highly sought after and generally well paid. A career in Pattern Making is rewarding professionally and personally and is rewarding financially. Pattern makers are sought by high end Fashion Houses, Manufacturers, big and small boutiques, Made to measure boutiques and by private clients. If you are after a home based business then Pattern Making is one of those professions that allows you to work at home or freelance and work for many companies.
In many Fashion houses pattern makers and designers are synonymous and both may be multi skilled and have the knowledge to provide services that provides an economical situation for the company they work for. The Pattern Maker may find herself involved in various roles when employed by a Fashion Label. The pattern maker can be employed as a Designer/Pattern Maker, Pattern maker/Grader, Pattern Maker and Sample Machinist and even Pattern maker/Production Manager.
The Pattern makers job is to interpret designs and to construct patterns and to ensure that these patterns uphold the image of the label. The Pattern makers role involves participation in fit meetings with models and designers, grading of patterns, calculating estimates of fabric usage, checking accuracy of samples against pattern, alterations, assisting in production of markers if required, assisting in design and selecting appropriate trims for the styles and fabrics, production, liaising with outdoor makers or international makers, liaising with quality control departments, specification sheets and many other responsibilities
Generally speaking it is wise for the Pattern Maker to have knowledge not only in Pattern Making but also many other areas of design. It is a good idea to study many areas of fashion at Design School to ensure that you acquire a level of proficiency in all areas of fashion.
When I was studying fashion I studied many areas of fashion including sewing machine and stitching technology, pattern making at all levels, grading, marker making, computer pattern making and grading, evening wear, draping and many other subjects. It gave me enough skills and knowledge in order for me to be able to handle any job that was required of me. Being multi skilled I have been able to work in various roles and situations allowing me to gain experience in all areas of Fashion.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Pattern making equipment
All pattern makers and designers need tools of the trade to make patterns and designs. These can include pattern hole punch, notchers, scissors, rulers, weights, awls, etc.
If you would like to purchase any pattern making and design equipment please let me know, here are the prices.
Pattern hole punch $155.00
Pattern Notcher $145.00
Grading ruler metric $30.00
Grading ruler metric & imperial $35.00
Pattern making scissors (Wiss brand) $130.00 for 10" shears
Pattern making scissors ( Wiss brand) $155.00 for 12" shears
Pattern making scissors ( Premax brand) $35.00 for 8" shears
Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $45.00 for 10" shears
Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $ 90.00 for 12" tailor shears
If you would like to purchase any pattern making and design equipment please let me know, here are the prices.
Pattern hole punch $155.00
Pattern Notcher $145.00
Grading ruler metric $30.00
Grading ruler metric & imperial $35.00
Pattern making scissors (Wiss brand) $130.00 for 10" shears
Pattern making scissors ( Wiss brand) $155.00 for 12" shears
Pattern making scissors ( Premax brand) $35.00 for 8" shears
Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $45.00 for 10" shears
Pattern making scissors (Premax brand) $ 90.00 for 12" tailor shears
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Welcome
Welcome to Making Fashion blog. My name is Anna and I've been working in the clothing industry for more than 14 years. I started this blog because I wanted to share my knowledge about the industry and in particular pattern making. I'm a pattern maker and have worked with men, women and children's patterns for many well known designers and manufacturers. You name it I've done it. I've also done lots of eveningwear requiring intricate pattern details.
Personally I'm 46 married to a wonderful man and have a beautiful little girl called Shanelle (and no I didn't put that name because of Coco Chanel) My daughter is the best thing that ever happened to me I thank God everyday for her existance! Oh and I forgot to mention our dog Zack he's part of the family too and so cute!
Next year i will be offering pattern making classes in person or by correspondence. I have a few projects on the agenda for next year so please bookmark my blog as I'm sure you will find lots of interesting articles and free stuff and links as well.
I studied pattern making and design at Box hill T.A.F.E. I recommend Box Hill T.A.F.E. as it is one of the best schools to learn everything about the industry, especially the technical side of things. Some colleges only specialise in design and don't really go into the manufacturing side of things which i think is important as some people don't realise what the clothing industry is really like, it's not just design and glamour, it's alot of hard work (and stress!!!). The courses at Box Hill T.A.F.E cater to both manufacturing and design. I studied all aspects of pattern making including womens and childrens pattern making and graduated with distinctions in these areas. I also studied draping and evening wear, I highly recommend these two specialised courses as you learn some amasing things!!
Take a look around at my blog I'm sure you will find some interesting articles, lessons and information to do with pattern making, grading, sewing and fashion in general. Feel free to ask questions or seek information, I will do my best to answer everyone. Enjoy!!
Personally I'm 46 married to a wonderful man and have a beautiful little girl called Shanelle (and no I didn't put that name because of Coco Chanel) My daughter is the best thing that ever happened to me I thank God everyday for her existance! Oh and I forgot to mention our dog Zack he's part of the family too and so cute!
Next year i will be offering pattern making classes in person or by correspondence. I have a few projects on the agenda for next year so please bookmark my blog as I'm sure you will find lots of interesting articles and free stuff and links as well.
I studied pattern making and design at Box hill T.A.F.E. I recommend Box Hill T.A.F.E. as it is one of the best schools to learn everything about the industry, especially the technical side of things. Some colleges only specialise in design and don't really go into the manufacturing side of things which i think is important as some people don't realise what the clothing industry is really like, it's not just design and glamour, it's alot of hard work (and stress!!!). The courses at Box Hill T.A.F.E cater to both manufacturing and design. I studied all aspects of pattern making including womens and childrens pattern making and graduated with distinctions in these areas. I also studied draping and evening wear, I highly recommend these two specialised courses as you learn some amasing things!!
Take a look around at my blog I'm sure you will find some interesting articles, lessons and information to do with pattern making, grading, sewing and fashion in general. Feel free to ask questions or seek information, I will do my best to answer everyone. Enjoy!!
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